Ok, so you've done the Mame thing: made this awesome cabinet or control panel, and tried playing every obscure rom from the previous two decades. You now think to yourself "I'd love to also play MODERN arcade games on this thang!". One solution is interfacing a home console to your cabinet or control panel. This section is an attempt to outline the common questions and new frontiers of interfacing modern consoles to arcade controls. Of course not every console game was made to play correctly on an arcade control panel, but the ones that do rock big time!
 

Console Video

• Composite/S-Video
• RGB/SCART
• RGB to Arcade Monitor
• Dreamcast to Arcade Monitor
• Component/HDTV
• Transcoders, Upscanners, and VGA

Console Controls

• Digital Pads
• Analog Pads
• Interfacing with analog arcade controls
• Lightguns

--- saint's note - old Dreamcast hacking page here.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Most consoles have several video output formats available aside from the standard composite/s-video outs. Depending upon the monitor you are using, you will want the best possible resolution for that display device. Below are a list of the common monitors and matching video outputs. [For now, only info on the following consoles are listed: Playstation1/2, Dreamcast, Xbox, Gamecube.]
 
 
 

Composite/S-Video   Composite and S-Video are the basic video outputs of all consoles (I'm not going to mention RF modulated video since that's pretty much outdated). Composite video is ok for displaying on older/cheaper TVs (which do not support S-Video). S-Video is a step above Composite, with a sharper image and slightly better color. No hacking required, just plug in and go.

RGB/SCART   RGB/SCART is a video format which is a step above S-Video. [A nice primer on RGB can be found here on atarilabs.com (also known as gamesx.com).] Only used in Japan and Europe, SCART enabled TV's accept separated Red/Green/Blue and composite sync (15khz). It should be noted that Japanese SCART and European SCART standards are slightly different even though the plugs look identical. [Its not to difficult to rewire the SCART connector pins if you buy the wrong version.]  Why bother with RGB if you don't have a SCART enabled TV? Well, standard resolution Arcade Monitors (15khz) accept RGB and sync. Most arcade monitors use separate Horizontal and Vertical sync, but some will also accept composite sync (Hor and Vert combined) on the Horizontal input alone. Its fairly straightforward to hack a RGB/SCART cable to an arcade monitor. RGB to Arcade Monitor   Every console has an SCART/RGB cable available (you will have to order from an import company or just check ebay).  Since the AV out on the playstation doesn't contain sync, you can strip a composite sync signal from the composite video line using an LM1881 circuit.   Note: you need to add 220uf capacitors (preferably non-polarized) connected in each R/G/B line before the monitor inputs or the picture will be quite dark.  [If you are hacking from a SCART cable, just re-use the capacitors already inside the SCART connector end.]  The Playstation One and Playstation2 use the same A/V pinouts as the original playstation.  The Xbox av port has a tricky jumper method (the jumper is set by grounding one or more of the jumper pins) causing a couple variable signal pins to output several video formats.  The GameCube Digital/Component cable offers RGB (as well as 31khz RGB ... otherwise known as VGA).  [Gamesx only has the GameCube RGB/VGA hack in a very long discussion thread at the moment.] Dreamcast-To-Jamma has a page with a similar LM1881 hack to that of the playstation. Dreamcast to Arcade Monitor   There is a simpler alternative for hacking a Dreamcast to an arcade monitor (other than the RGB/SCART method above). Its possible to hack a Dreamcast VGA Box to output at 15khz.  If you studied the Dreamcast AV pinout you will notice a similar "jumper" method (to that of the Xbox) is used for setting the sync rate. If pin 6 (or both 6 and 7) are grounded the VGA box outputs a 31.5Khz VGA/RGB signal. But if ONLY pin 7 is grounded, the box will output a 15khz signal. So all you have to do is disconnect pin 6 (so it never touches ground). To do this, open up the VGA box, and cut the pin 6 wire where it connects to the VGA box pcb. [You can optionally install a toggle switch if you still want it to function as normal VGA box. You should also use a Multimeter on the Continuity Test setting to trace pin 6 from the DC connector end to where is meets the VGA Box pcb. Also make sure when you cut the wire at the PCB, to leave enough room to re-splice the wire back together if you cut the wrong one -- which is a common mistake by looking at the pinout of the cable backwards.] All that's left is cutting a 9-pin VGA monitor cable (VGA pin out here) to splice the r/g/b/h/v/gnd to your arcade monitor. If you are using a Jamma connector (which only has a connection for composite sync), then twist the Hor and Vert sync lines together and connect it to the composite sync on the Jamma connector.

Component/HDTV   Component Video is identical (quality wise) to RGB/SCART (when viewed at 480i resolution).  The only difference between the two is that Component uses a special way of combining the Sync with R/G/B to save on signal bandwidth (resulting in just 3 wires Y,Pr, Pb).  The Playstation2, XBox, and GameCube all support Component video out. The Playstation2 only supports 480i [although the new Tekken 4 and some possible future titles will support 480p]. All the XBox games natively support 480p. And about a little more than half the GameCube games support 480p. If you are unfamiliar with HDTV output resolutions (480i, 480p, 720p...).  Through the use of a Transcoder (mentioned below) you can interface a 480i signal to an arcade monitor. You can also interface progressive (non-interlaced) signals such as 480p and 720p to a computer monitor.

Transcoders, Upscanners and VGA   Transcoders   Transcoders are circuits used to convert HDTV/Component signals to/from RGB. For example, a 480i Component signal can be converted to standard 15khz RGB, while a 480p progressive signal can be converted to 640x480 VGA. Unfortunately its a little too complicated/expensive to build your own transcoder circuit.  Audio Authority makes a Component-to-VGA Transcoder for $189, and Key Digital makes one for about $300.  Make sure you don't get confused with transcoders which convert the other way (take a VGA signal and convert to component 480p).  Ken Gasper over on the xboxhacker.net forum is making limited runs of his homemade transcoder for a very low price $50-$75 (these are incredibly hard to make since it involves very small surface mount components).  Ken makes a couple versions from one fully integrated in an Xbox A/V cable, to just the circuit alone (which you can mount in your own enclosure for use on other consoles). [I happen to have bought Ken's $50 version, and mounted it in a radio shack enclosure with 9v ac power rectifier, and it works on both the Xbox and GameCube (and probably most progressive DVD players).] Upscanners   Upscanners (or scan converters) can be used to upscan 480i or 15khz RGB signals to 640x480/480p VGA. Upscanners range from the very cheap $30 Redant boxes, to professional quality scanners costing $500-$1000. Obviously upscanning a picture is never going to look as good/sharp as a progressive signal converted to VGA (like with a transcoder). Depending upon the source input signal, upscanning can look terrible or fairly nice. The Redant boxes upscan a simple composite video signal. This means the composite signal first has to be converted to RGB, and then upscanned. There is quite a bit of loss in the signal during these conversions. The best input signal to upscan is pure RGB (so basically all that's left is to double the scan lines). The X-RGB2 (no longer being made) and X-RGB2 Plus are professional quality upscanners at a consumer price ($250). The difference between the "Plus" version and the older version is that now it accepts Component input as well as RGB (so a transcoder is built into the unit). The X-RGB units are made in Japan, and as such have a 21pin Japanese scart input for RGB and Component (special component to scart cable is included). So for upscanning something like a playstation2 for display on a VGA monitor, nothing (quality wise) beats the X-RGB2 Plus. Of course if the Playstation2 starting making games at higher resolutions than 480i then you the X-RGB2 Plus is still good as a transcoder (so you get the best of both worlds). [I have the original X-RGB2 and play all my playstation2 games on a VGA monitor and the results are excellent to say the least. A review of the original X-RGB2 can be found here.] VGA   Unfortunately, the only console manufacturer to actually have a CLUE was Sega, and their now defunct Dreamcast. With arguably just as good graphics as the Playstation2, the Dreamcast has the advantage of outputting native VGA. This means you don't need an upscanner or transcoder. You can either buy a $15 DC VGA box or build your own from plans on the gamesx site. The remaining modern consoles have chosen Component video as their highest quality output.  This means you will need to either find a monitor/tv which accepts component, or use a transcoder (as mentioned above).

Ok there isn't much to console sound.  Options range from simple mono/stereo to 5.1 dolby surround.  However, there are at least two ways of hooking up sound to an arcade cabinet. The first option is obvious: buy a set of powered PC speakers and install them in your cab. It should be noted that you will NOT be able to use the existing 8 or 6 ohm speakers in your cabinet with a cheap PC speaker amp. [trust me it will sound horrible].  This brings us to option number 2. If you wish to use the existing speakers, you will need to buy a real amp with 8 or 6 ohm speaker outputs. Radio Shack makes a perfect small amp (SA-155) to use inside your cabinet (it puts out almost no heat and doesn't require lots of ventilation).  [you can get them for about $20-$25 used on ebay]
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

In most cases, interfacing console controls to an arcade control panel is pretty much the same as hooking up PC joysticks to an arcade control panel. But with new console controllers using analog controls, things get a bit more complicated. Listed below are the common hacks for digital pads, and some info/ideas for hacking analog controls. Whether or not you wish to use analog controls as part of your arcade control panel is up to you. Also included is a small section on lightguns and other input controls. [One tip I suggest is to buy a digital multimeter (and use the continuity test setting) to trace button and ground contacts along the PCB. A multimeter is also good for determining the voltages used across potentiometers (in analog controls).]
 
 

Digital Pads   Hacking digital console pads is not unlike hacking digital PC Joysticks.  I won't go into detail since its pretty much common knowledge.  CD_Vision has both examples of hacking a knock off PSX pad and a Dreamcast Madcatz pad.  Another detailed example of hacking an original PSX pad can be found here. Note: Original PSX pads are compatible with the PS2, but some games may not function/start without analog support present on the controller.

Analog Pads   Dreamcast   The Dreamcast controller contains an analog thumbstick and analog shoulder (trigger) buttons.   On the original Sega pad, all analog controls are measured using Hall Effect Sensors.  Another detailed explanation of the Sega pad with hall effect thumbstick and trigger buttons is located here.  Since these hall effect ic's basically regulate a voltage between +5 (or 2.5v) and ground, its quite simple to hack them to digital controls.  All you do is ground out the one pin of the Hall chip. DC-to-Jamma has a pic describing which points to hack for the trigger buttons [the same could be done for the thumbstick].  3rd party manufacturers which make Dreamcast pads usually opt for the cheaper potentiometer approach to measuring analog input. [I don't recommend hacking potentiometers to digital controls unless you understand how they are used in the circuit. Most implementations use a centered voltage of +2.5v with +5v being the extreme to one side, and ground being the extreme to the other. Its still possible to wire a digital joystick to theses potentiometers, but you have to use a +2.5v source on at least two of the microswitches of the digital joystick (rather than ground). Hope that makes sense.] Playstation 1/2   The original Dual Shock (now known as the PSOne controller) contains digital buttons, and analog thumbsticks.  The Dual Shock2 has all analog buttons, thumbsticks, and an added L3 and R3 buttons (activated by pushing down on the analog thumbsticks). A nice primer on the basics of the Dual Shock2 is available here. Gamesx also has a nice info page on how analog pushbuttons work in the PS2. The PS2 controller is so advanced, that the analog button contacts and traces are embedded in a plastic ribbon connector. So the only way to solder to these controls is either to create your own ribbon connector (with real wire) or solder to the bottom of the connector plug (which is way to small for normal soldering equipment). The PSone is easier to hack with its all digital button contacts. The same caveats apply to hacking the dual analog thumbsticks as with the Dreamcast stick mentioned above (the DS and DS2 uses potentiometers). XBox   Like the Dual Shock2, the XBox controller uses all analog buttons. The original XBox controller is also very difficult to hack (as the traces and contact points are almost too small to solder to). But thankfully 3rd party manufacturers like Madcatz makes a cheap version which has good places to solder connections to. The Madcatz pad also uses a non analog d-pad (to make things easier).  [I have successfully hacked the Madcatz pad, and am planning on putting up a page soon with how I wired an elegant 25-pin ribbon cable/connector to the pad without destroying it.]  *This part is still under construction* GameCube   Basically the GameCube controller consists of the same elements already found in the PS, PS2, and Dreamcast controllers. I have yet to find any solid information (or interest for that matter) on people how have hacked GameCube controllers, so its not known if the thumbstick (for example) uses potentiometers or hall effect sensors.  However, you should be able to figure things out based on the above Playstation and Dreamcast controllers. If you have any suggestions for which GameCube pad is easiest to hack (or any other information for that matter), please send it to me (Dave_K.). *This part is still under construction*

Interfacing with analog arcade controls   Hacking the analog buttons/sticks on a console controller to a Happs digital 8-way arcade stick isn't exactly an elegant solution (since you have no fine control over the analog movement).  Another option then is to use some existing analog arcade joysticks (such as the 49-way stick, or analog joystick with ultimate handle).  The 49-way sticks have been discontinued (and can be found at rather cheap prices on ebay).  The Happs analog stick is the perfect solution, but costs $116 each!  If anyone finds a cheap supplier of these please let me know!  If you do happen to get your hands on a 49-way stick, Tim over at arcadecollecting.com has developed a circuit to use the 49-way in place of an analog (or hall effect type) joystick.  The circuit can also be modified slightly to pull double duty as an 8-way digital stick (using just the first sets of led contacts).  Other console controls such as a driving wheel, or usb mouse (for the playstation2) can be hacked using the same spinner, and driving wheel instructions for PC controls. *This part is still under construction*

Lightguns   Console lightgun games work very nicely inside arcade cabinets (and look much better than anything Mame has to offer IMHO).  They work perfectly on Arcade monitors using the RGB/SCART or 480i Transcoder options mentioned above.  Contrary to belief, console lightgun games can also work on VGA monitors (even when upscanned) at 640x480@60hz.  They will not work however on LCD monitors/projectors, or HDTVs with 100hz refresh rates.  In most cases, you will have to make sure to have your Brightness and Contrast controls cranked to their highest levels for the gun to calibrate correctly.  [I have confirmed the Dreamcast lightgun works on a VGA monitor (via the DC VGA box), and that the Playstation2 GunCon2 works when upscanned using the X-RGB2.]